Working Buttonholes or Faux Cuffs? Finding the Balance Between Tradition and Practicality
Written by Kenji Tanaka
Among the many details that distinguish a tailored jacket, few generate as much discussion as working buttonholes, also known as surgeon's cuffs.
Unlike decorative sleeve buttons, working buttonholes allow the cuff buttons to be unfastened. Because of this, they are often regarded as a hallmark of bespoke tailoring, and many people assume that a truly well-made jacket should always include them.
However, are working buttonholes really the right choice for every jacket?
At Uniontailors, we believe the answer depends on how the garment is intended to be worn—not only today, but for many years to come.
The Origins of Working Buttonholes
The exact origin of working buttonholes remains uncertain.
One of the most widely repeated stories claims that physicians needed functional sleeve buttons so they could roll up their sleeves during examinations or surgery. While this explanation is popular, there is little historical evidence to confirm it, and today it is generally regarded as one of several possible theories rather than established fact.
Whatever their true origin, the practical need for opening sleeve cuffs gradually disappeared. Yet the detail itself remained, becoming part of the language of classic tailoring.
Working buttonholes are also closely associated with bespoke tailoring for a practical reason. In bespoke garments, the sleeve length is determined before the buttonholes are cut, allowing functional cuffs to be added without compromising the fit.
In contrast, ready-to-wear jackets often require sleeve-length alterations after purchase. Functional buttonholes make these adjustments significantly more difficult, which is why decorative, non-functional buttonholes—often called faux cuffs—have long been the more practical solution for most factory-made garments.
Over time, this distinction helped establish working buttonholes as a feature closely associated with bespoke tailoring.
Why Uniontailors Doesn't Always Recommend Working Buttonholes
At Uniontailors, we are happy to make jackets with working buttonholes whenever a client requests them.
Many clients appreciate the traditional appearance, and for those who enjoy classic tailoring, it is a beautiful detail that reflects centuries of craftsmanship.
At the same time, we do not believe that every jacket should automatically have functional cuffs.
Our philosophy is based on creating garments that can be worn, maintained, and enjoyed for as long as possible.
Sleeve Length May Change
Once working buttonholes have been cut, sleeve-length alterations become considerably more complicated.
It is certainly possible to shorten sleeves from the shoulder by removing and resetting the entire sleeve, but this process requires substantial labour, advanced tailoring skills, and significantly higher alteration costs.
With faux cuffs, however, sleeve length can usually be adjusted from the cuff with far greater ease.
This flexibility benefits not only the original owner, but also anyone who may wear the jacket in the future.
A Jacket That Can Be Passed On
A well-made jacket should last for decades.
Over time, body shape changes, personal style evolves, and garments are sometimes passed on to a son, a relative, or someone who will continue to appreciate them.
The ability to alter sleeve length easily helps extend the useful life of the garment.
In our view, this is another form of sustainability—not simply choosing quality materials, but designing garments that can continue to serve their purpose for generations.
Respecting Tradition While Designing for Longevity
Working buttonholes are a beautiful traditional detail.
For clients who appreciate classic tailoring or specifically request them, they remain an excellent choice.
At the same time, faux cuffs offer a practical advantage that should not be overlooked.
At Uniontailors, we do not see these two options as competing with one another. Each has its own purpose.
Tailoring is not only about preserving tradition.
It is also about considering how a garment will be worn, altered, maintained, and appreciated over the course of many years.
Ultimately, the true value lies not in the detail itself, but in understanding why that detail has been chosen.