What Types of Pockets Are Found on a Jacket?
Written by Kenji Tanaka
A jacket can have several pockets on the chest, waist, and inside.
At first glance, many of them may look similar, but each has its own construction and, historically, its own purpose.
In this article, we will look at the pockets commonly found on tailored jackets by considering where they are located, how they are constructed, and what form they take.
First, Where Is the Pocket Located?
Breast Pocket
The pocket located on the left chest of the jacket.
Today, it is best known as the place for a pocket square, but it originally served as a practical pocket for carrying small items.
On a tailored jacket, it is usually made narrow and understated so that it does not interfere with the line of the chest.
Hip Pockets
These are the pockets located on either side of the lower jacket.
They are among the most practical jacket pockets, used for putting one's hands in or carrying small items.
Inside Pockets
These are pockets located inside the jacket.
They are used for carrying items such as a wallet, glasses, or pen without displaying them from the outside.
Pockets Can Also Differ in How They Are Constructed
Even when two pockets are located in the same place, the way the opening is constructed can give them a completely different appearance.
Welted Breast Pocket
This is the familiar breast pocket found on tailored jackets.
A narrow strip of fabric forms the pocket opening, creating a clean, linear appearance.
It is one of the most common ways of constructing a breast pocket on a tailored jacket and helps keep the line of the chest clean.
In Japanese tailoring, this type of breast pocket is commonly referred to as a hako pocket or “box pocket.”
Single-Welt Pocket
A single welt is formed along one side of the pocket opening.
It creates a very clean and understated appearance, keeping the presence of the pocket to a minimum.
Double-Welt Pocket
Both sides of the pocket opening are finished with welts.
Only two narrow strips are visible from the outside, creating a particularly clean appearance.
This construction is frequently seen in formalwear and is commonly referred to as a double-welt pocket or jetted pocket.
Patch Pocket
A separate piece of fabric is sewn directly onto the outside of the jacket, creating the pocket.
Its construction is relatively simple and gives a more casual appearance than welted pockets.
Patch pockets are often seen on sports jackets and other garments where practicality is important.
A Flap Is Not a Pocket Construction
One point that can be confusing when discussing pockets is the flap.
A flap is the piece of fabric that covers the pocket opening.
Originally, it had a practical purpose: helping to keep rain and dust from entering the pocket.
Today, it is also an important design detail that contributes to the overall appearance of a jacket.
However, a flap does not itself define the construction of the pocket.
It can be combined with different pocket constructions, such as welted or patch pockets.
In other words, a pocket can be described as:
Welted Pocket + Flap
Patch Pocket + Flap
Pockets Also Have Names Based on Their Position or Shape
Some pocket terms refer not to their basic construction, but to where they are placed or how the pocket opening is positioned.
Change Pocket
It is normally a small additional pocket placed above the right hip pocket.
It is generally understood to have originated as a practical pocket for carrying small items such as coins or tickets.
Today, it is rarely used specifically for coins, but it remains a distinctive detail associated with British tailoring.
Slant Pocket
A pocket with an opening positioned at an angle rather than horizontally.
It is commonly associated with British tailoring and gives the jacket a more sporty and dynamic appearance.
A slant pocket does not itself define the construction of the pocket.
For example, it can be combined with another feature:
slant pockets + double-welt construction + flaps
One Pocket Can Have Several Features
This is where understanding jacket pockets becomes particularly interesting.
For example:
Left chest
→ breast pocket → welted breast pocket
Both hips
→ hip pockets → slant pockets + double-welt construction + flaps
Above the right hip pocket
→ change pocket → with flap
In this way, where a pocket is located, how it is constructed, and what shape it takes can all be considered separately.
That is why a “welted pocket” and a “flap” are not necessarily opposing classifications.
Several features can be combined in a single pocket.
Pockets Are More Than Places to Carry Things
On a modern jacket, pockets do not necessarily exist simply for storage.
Their position, angle, size, and construction can affect the overall appearance and proportions of the jacket.
For example, simply raising the breast pocket slightly can change the way the upper body appears.
The position and angle of the hip pockets can also influence the silhouette of the jacket.
For a tailor, a pocket is therefore:
“a place to carry things” and, at the same time, “a detail that helps create the shape of the jacket.”
Although pockets may seem like small details, they embody decisions about how a jacket should look, function, and ultimately be worn.