Why Is a Pocket Square... Square?
Written by Kenji Tanaka
The answer may seem obvious—it is called a pocket square because it is square. But this timeless accessory has a fascinating history, and its shape is no coincidence.
From Handkerchief to Pocket Square
The ancestor of the pocket square was the handkerchief, which dates back to Ancient Rome. Wealthy Romans carried finely woven linen cloths known as sudarium. More than practical items, they were symbols of refinement and social status.
During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, handkerchiefs became luxurious accessories embroidered with lace and precious threads. They were not always square—many were circular, triangular, or elaborately shaped, often exchanged as tokens of affection or status.
Why Did the Square Prevail?
By the late 18th century, the square had become the dominant shape for handkerchiefs. An important milestone came in 1785, when King Louis XVI of France issued a royal decree requiring handkerchiefs manufactured in France to have equal length and width—in other words, to be perfectly square.
The exact motivation behind the decree remains debated. A popular legend attributes it to Marie Antoinette's preference for symmetrical handkerchiefs, although historians have found little evidence to confirm the story.
What is certain is that the square proved to be the most practical shape. It made efficient use of woven fabric, was easier to hem, and could be folded neatly into countless styles, eventually becoming the standard for today's pocket square.
A Symbol of Elegance
As tailored jackets became part of a gentleman's wardrobe, decorative handkerchiefs moved from the trouser pocket to the breast pocket, evolving into the modern pocket square. Unlike a handkerchief, its purpose was no longer utility, but style.
Today, the square remains unmatched. It allows countless folds—from the crisp Presidential Fold to the relaxed Puff Fold—while sitting securely in the pocket with balanced proportions.
Sometimes, the simplest designs endure because they were right from the beginning. The pocket square is one of them.